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How life works on the Flathead Indian Reservation – Politics, education, economy, health

1.3 million acres (533,000 ha) of prairie land lies along the Flathead River in northwest Montana flanked by the Salish, Mission, and Cabinet Mountains. This is the Flathead Indian Reservation, home to the Bitterroot Salish, Kootenai, and Pend d’Oreilles tribes.

Also known as the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes (CSKT) of the Flathead Nation, this tribal governing body oversees and administers life on the reservation. Read on to learn about politics, economy, education, health, and other aspects of life on the Flathead Indian Reservation.

Table of contents:

Flathead Indian Reservation Map

flathead indian reservation map
Flathead Indian Reservation map (Google Maps screenshot)

Quick facts about the Flathead Indian Reservation

What is the Flathead Reservation known for?

The Flathead Indian Reservation is a 1.3 million-acre expanse in western Montana, home to the Bitterroot Salish, Kootenai, and Pend d’Oreilles tribes. It’s known for the National Bison Range, Flathead Lake State Park, Ninepipe National Wildlife Refuge, and the St Ignatius Mission.

Who lives on the Flathead Reservation?

The Flathead Indian Reservation is home to the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes, which comprises the Bitterroot Salish, Kootenai, and Pend d’Oreilles tribes. These tribes have lived here for over 10,000 years. Today, the reservation has roughly 30,000 residents, of whom 27% identify as Native American.

What are the principal towns on the Flathead Reservation?

The principal towns on the Flathead Indian Reservation include:

  • Polson. The capital of the Flathead Indian Reservation (pop. 5,148)
  • Ronan. A city just south of Flathead Lake (pop. 1,955)
  • Charlo. A historic town near the Bison Range (pop. 385)
  • St. Ignatius. A former mission built in 1854 (pop. 768)
  • Hot Springs. A historic town with hot springs (pop. 557)

What language do they speak on the Flathead Reservation?

The Bitterroot Salish, Pend d’Oreille, and Kootenai tribes of the Flathead Indian Reservation speak three different languages. The Bitterroot Salish and the Pend d’Oreille speak similar dialects of the Salishian language. The Kootenai speak Kootenai, a language isolate that’s unrelated to the Salishian languages of many northwest tribes.

What religion is on the Flathead Reservation?

Traditional religious beliefs of the Salish, Pend d’Oreille, and Kootenai tribes of the Flathead Indian Reservation were founded on guardian spirits. However, due to the Jesuit missionaries’ religious acculturation in the 1800s, the primary religion on the Flathead Indian Reservation today is Roman Catholicism.

Can you vacation on an Indian reservation?

Yes, you can vacation on an Indian reservation! Economic and social problems are prevalent on Montana’s Indian reservations and warrant common sense from any visitor. Still, the state’s seven reservations feature natural landscapes, museums, annual events, and historic points of interest, making them great destinations for short-term vacations.

Who owns the land on the Flathead Reservation?

Today, 63% of land on the Flathead Indian Reservation is tribally owned. Thirty-two percent is private fee land, and 5% belongs to federal or state governments.

History of the Flathead Indian Reservation

flathead indian reservation history woman
Photo of a tribal member on the Flathead Indian Reservation during a 1920 investigation into the Flathead Irrigation Project.

The history of the Flathead Indian Reservation dates back to 1855, when the Treaty of Hellgate was signed between the Bitterroot Salish, Kootenai, and Pend d’Oreilles tribes and the United States government. The treaty established a reservation for the exclusive use of the tribes, covering an area of about 1.3 million acres (533,000 ha) in western Montana.

However, the US government didn’t respect the treaty, allowing white settlers to later encroach on the reservation lands and resources.

The tribes faced many conflicts and challenges leading up to the reservation’s establishment. For example, the Bitterroot Salish were removed from their homeland in 1891 and forced onto the Flathead Reservation.

Once they had relocated to the reservation, they faced continued hardships, such as the allotment in 1904. The allotment sold significant portions of tribal land to settlers. Meanwhile, the Indian Termination Policy aggressively forced assimilation on boarding school children.

flathead indian reservation history
Photo of a tribal member standing in a field on the Flathead Indian Reservation during a 1920 investigation into the Flathead Irrigation Project.

Despite these hardships, the tribes managed to preserve and strengthen their culture and identity. Key historic events and figures that shaped the reservation and its culture include:

  • The establishment of the National Bison Range in 1908 by President Theodore Roosevelt. This protected the only wild bison herd in Montana and provided a source of income for the tribes.
  • The formation of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes of the Flathead Nation in 1935. This united three tribes under a common constitution and government.
  • The leadership of Chief Charlo, a respected tribal chief. Charlo resisted the removal of the Bitterroot Salish, but ultimately led his tribe on a 75-mile march to the reservation in 1891.
  • The activism of D’Arcy McNickle, a prominent writer, educator, and advocate for Native American rights and sovereignty and a member of the Salish Kootenai Nation.
  • The revival of the Arlee Powwow, one of the largest cultural celebrations of the tribe dating back to 1898.

Tribes of the Flathead Indian Reservation

The culture of the Flathead Indian Reservation in western Montana is diverse and vibrant, reflecting the heritage and identity of the three tribes that live there: the Bitterroot Salish, Kootenai, and Pend d’Oreille. Each tribe has its language, traditions, beliefs, and values. However, they also share common elements and influences.

Bitterroot Salish

flathead indian reservation charlo
Painting by Edgar S. Paxson (1852-1919) of Chief Charlo of the Bitterroot Salish Tribe

The Bitterroot Salish speak a dialect of the Salish language, which belongs to the Salishan language family. They are known for their oral history and storytelling, which preserve their ancestral knowledge and wisdom. They also practice various ceremonies and rituals, such as the sweat lodge, the spirit dance, and the bitterroot feast. They value respect, generosity, and harmony with nature.

Learn more: History of the Bitterroot Salish Tribe

Kootenai

flathead indian reservation kutenai
A Kootenai Indian stands in a canoe on the shores of Flathead Lake on the Flathead Indian Reservation. 1910

The Kootenai speak a language unrelated to any other known language and is considered a language isolate. They also use Ktunaxa Sign Language (a·qanⱡiⱡⱡitnam). They are known for their craftsmanship and artistry, especially in basketry, beadwork, and quillwork. They value courage, honesty, and loyalty.

Pend d’Oreille

flathead indian reservation pend d'oreille
Pend d’Oreille couple. 1910

The Pend d’Oreille speak a dialect of the Salish language similar to the Bitterroot Salish. They are known for their fishing and hunting skills. They also have a strong spiritual connection to the land and the water, and honor their ancestors and elders. They value peace, friendship, and cooperation.

Learn more: History of the Pend d’Oreille Tribe

Geography of the Flathead Indian Reservation

The geography of the Flathead Indian Reservation in Montana is diverse and scenic, as it covers an area of 1.3 million acres (533,000 ha) in western Montana. The reservation has land in four counties – Lake, Sanders, Missoula, and Flathead – and contains the southern half of Flathead Lake, the largest natural freshwater lake west of the Mississippi River in the United States.

The reservation is surrounded by the Salish Mountains, Mission Range, and Cabinet Mountains. These mountains provide a habitat for many wildlife species, such as grizzly bears, wolves, elk, deer, and mountain goats. The reservation also hosts the National Bison Range, a wildlife refuge protecting one of the three wild bison herds in Montana.

flathead indian reservation mission mountains
View of the Mission Mountains from the National Bison Range on the Flathead Indian Reservation. Photo: Henry MulliganCC BY-SA 3.0

The reservation has abundant water resources, such as Flathead Lake, the Flathead River, and the Jocko River. These natural water sources support various fish species, such as trout, bass, and kokanee, making for excellent fishing opportunities.

Still, the reservation has faced some unique environmental issues and challenges around water rights and wildlife management. For decades, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS) managed the National Bison Range. In 2022, the USFWS returned Range stewardship to the tribes.

Water rights have also been a contentious issue at times, as the tribes have to negotiate with the state and federal government over reservation water allocation and use. Wildlife management is a complex task. The tribes must balance wildlife conservation and restoration with the protection and development of human interests.

Economy of the Flathead Indian Reservation

flathead indian reservation polson
View over the town of Polson on the southern shores of Flathead Lake. Photo: MontanabwCC BY-SA 3.0

The economy of the Flathead Indian Reservation in Montana is diverse and dynamic, as it reflects the interests and aspirations of the tribes that live there.

The main sources of income and employment for the reservation are:

  • Education
  • Health services
  • Transportation
  • Warehousing

The reservation faces several economic opportunities and challenges related to poverty, unemployment, and education:

  • Poverty. According to the U.S. Census Bureau1, the poverty rate on the reservation is 20.2%, higher than the state average of 12.1%.2
  • Unemployment. The unemployment rate on the reservation is 3.7%3, also slightly higher than the state average of 3.2%4.
  • Education. About 91.5% of the reservation population has a high school diploma or higher, while the state average is 94.5%.5

The reservation has many economic development and innovation initiatives that aim to improve the tribal members’ living standards and well-being. Some of these initiatives include the following:

  • The development of renewable energy projects, such as the Seli’š Ksanka Qlispe’ Dam (formerly the Kerr Dam). This hydroelectric dam is currently owned and operated by the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes and provides electricity and revenue for the reservation.
  • The promotion of entrepreneurship and small business development, such as S&K Technologies. S&K is a family of companies that provide engineering, aerospace, and information technology services to government and commercial clients.
  • The advancement of technology and innovation, such as the establishment of Salish Kootenai College. The Salish Kootenai College is a tribal college that offers undergraduate and graduate degrees in nursing, forestry, digital design, education, and many other fields.

Politics of the Flathead Indian Reservation

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Flag of the Flathead Nation. Photo: DjembayzCC BY-SA 4.0

The Flathead Indian Reservation in western Montana is home to the Bitterroot Salish, Kootenai, and Pend d’Oreilles tribes, collectively known as the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes (CSKT) of the Flathead Nation.

The reservation was established by the Treaty of Hellgate in 1855, but its governance has been contested and modified by various federal policies and laws over the years.

Today, the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes is a sovereign nation with its own constitution, flag, and seal. Its complex governance structure and legal status reflect its history and diversity.

Tribal council

The tribal council is the governing body of the CSKT, composed of 10 members. The council elects a chairman, vice chairman, secretary, and treasurer from within.

Tribal courts

The tribal courts are the judicial branch of the tribal government, consisting of a trial court and an appellate court.

The tribal courts have jurisdiction over civil and criminal matters involving tribal members. The reservation is also subject to federal laws and regulations. The tribes are federally recognized and have a government-to-government relationship with the United States.

Alliances and partnerships

The CSKT is a member of the Rocky Mountain Tribal Leaders Council, a coalition of 11 tribes in the Rocky Mountain region that works on common issues and advocates for tribal rights and interests.

The CSKT is also affiliated with the National Congress of American Indians, the oldest and largest organization of tribal governments in the United States. The National Congress of American Indians represents the interests of over 500 tribes, advocating for their inherent and legal rights.

Education on the Flathead Indian Reservation

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The Michel building on the Salish Kootenai College on the Flathead Indian Reservation. Photo: DjembayzCC BY-SA 3.0

The Flathead Indian Reservation has a diverse educational system, creating opportunities for tribal and non-tribal residents. The reservation has 13 public schools offering K-12 education.

Salish Kootenai College (SKC) offers bachelor’s degrees, graduate degrees, and certificate programs in various fields of study, such as nursing and digital design. The college has 600 students, of whom about 60% are Native American. The reservation also provides scholarships and financial aid for its tribal members.

About 27% of the reservation’s population has a high school degree or equivalent, and about 19% have a bachelor’s degree6.

The reservation still faces barriers and gaps in its educational system, such as inadequate funding and resources, and high turnover rates. Various social and economic issues affecting the students and their families have resulted in a qualified teacher and staff shortage and low attendance and retention rates.

Health on the Flathead Indian Reservation

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The town of St Ignatius on the Flathead Indian Reservation sits before the Mission Mountains. Photo: Rob Pongsajapan, CC BY 2.0 DEED

Like many of Montana’s Indian reservations, the Flathead Indian Reservation also faces unique health crises.

The reservation’s significant health disparities include higher rates of poverty, unemployment, illness, drug abuse, and mortality than the state average. The reservation offers poor access to quality health care and preventive services.

For example, the rates of students on the Flathead Indian Reservation who have used inhalants at some point in their student careers and drank alcohol before turning 13 are higher than state averages8. Additionally, Native Americans across Montana on average die 18 years younger than non-native Montanans10.

Still, the reservation offers various health services and programs as it seeks to improve the health and well-being of its residents, both tribal and non-tribal, such as the Tribal Health Department.

The Tribal Health Department provides primary care, dental care, behavioral health, public health, and community health services to tribal members and their eligible beneficiaries.

Discover other Indian reservations in Montana


Sources:

  1. Statista
  2. Census.gov
  3. Flathead Beacon
  4. Y Charts
  5. Census Reporter
  6. Census.gov
  7. Montana.gov
  8. Montana Legislature
  9. National Indian Health Board
  10. Montana Department of Public Health and Human Services

header: Jeremy Weber, CC BY 2.0 DEED

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