Did you know that the Flathead Indian Reservation is home to one of the three wild bison populations in Montana? These majestic animals roam freely on the National Bison Range, a wildlife refuge established in 1908 by President Theodore Roosevelt. 

The Flathead Indian Reservation, located in western Montana on the Flathead River, is a 1.3 million-acre (533,000 ha) area where the Bitterroot Salish, Kootenai, and Pend d’Oreilles tribes reside. These tribes are also known as the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes (CSKT) of the Flathead Nation. The reservation was created through the Treaty of Hellgate in 1855, through which the tribes ceded much of their ancestral lands to the United States government.

In this article, we explore the history, culture, and top things to see on the Flathead Indian Reservation in Montana. Discover the tribe’s challenges and achievements, their traditions and values, their relationship with the land and the environment, and how to best experience the reservation in 2024.

Table of contents:

• Flathead Indian Reservation Map
• Quick facts about the Flathead Indian Reservation
• History of the Flathead Indian Reservation
• Culture and tribes of the Flathead Indian Reservation
• Geography of the Flathead Indian Reservation
• Economy of the Flathead Indian Reservation
• Politics of the Flathead Indian Reservation
• Education on the Flathead Indian Reservation
• Health on the Flathead Indian Reservation
• Top 10 things to see and do – Visiting the Flathead Indian Reservation

Flathead Indian Reservation Map

Who lives on the Flathead Reservation?

The Flathead Indian Reservation is home to the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes, which is comprised of the Bitterroot Salish, Kootenai, and Pend d’Oreilles tribes. These tribes trace their heritage back more than 10,000 years in this region of America. Today, the reservation has roughly 30,000 residents, of which 27% identify as Native American.

What are the principal towns on the Flathead Reservation?

The principal towns on the Flathead Indian Reservation include:

• Polson. The capital of the Flathead Indian Reservation (pop. 5,148)
• Ronan. A city just south of Flathead Lake (pop. 1,955)
• Charlo. A historic town near the Bison Range (pop. 385)
• St. Ignatius. A former mission built in 1854 (pop. 768)
• Hot Springs. A historic town with hot springs (pop. 557)

What language do they speak on the Flathead Reservation?

The Bitterroot Salish, Pend d’Oreille, and Kootenai tribes of the Flathead Indian Reservation speak three different languages. The Bitterroot Salish and the Pend d’Oreille speak similar dialects of the Salishian language, while The Kootenai speak Kootenai, a language isolate that is unrelated to the Salishian languages spoken by many of the tribes of the Northwest United States.

What religion is on the Flathead Reservation?

Traditional religious beliefs of the Salish, Pend d’Oreille, and Kootenai tribes of the Flathead Indian Reservation were founded on guardian spirits. However, as a result of religious acculturation that began in the 1800s with the arrival of Jesuit missionaries, the primary religion on the Flathead Indian Reservation today is Roman Catholicism.

Can you vacation on an Indian reservation?

Yes, you can vacation on an Indian reservation! Economic and social problems are prevalent on Montana’s Indian reservations and warrant common sense from any visitor. Still, the state’s seven reservations feature natural landscapes, museums, annual events, and historic points of interest, making them great destinations for short-term vacations.

Who owns the land on the Flathead Reservation?

As a result of the Allotment Act of 1904, the Salish, Pend d’Oreille, and Kootenai tribes lost about 50% of reservation land to settlers. After reacquiring much of that land, today 63% of reservation land is tribally owned. Thirty-two percent is private fee land and 5% belongs to federal or state governments.

History of the Flathead Indian Reservation

The history of the Flathead Indian Reservation dates back to 1855, when the Treaty of Hellgate was signed between the Bitterroot Salish, Kootenai, and Pend d’Oreilles tribes and the United States government. The treaty established a reservation for the exclusive use of the tribes, covering an area of about 1.3 million acres (533,000 ha) in western Montana.

However, the treaty was not respected by the US government and the white settlers, who encroached on the reservation lands and resources.

The tribes faced many conflicts and challenges leading up to the reservation’s establishment, such as the removal of the Bitterroot Salish from their homeland in 1891, from where they were forced onto the Flathead Reservation.

Once they had relocated to the reservation, they faced continued hardships, including the allotment of tribal lands to individual households in 1904 which sold significant portions of tribal land to settlers, the Indian Termination Policy, and the forced assimilation of the children in boarding schools.

Despite these hardships, the tribes managed to preserve and strengthen their culture and identity. Some of the key historical events and figures that shaped the reservation and its culture into what they are today include:

• The establishment of the National Bison Range in 1908 by President Theodore Roosevelt, which protected the only wild bison herd in Montana and provided a source of income for the tribes.
• The formation of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes of the Flathead Nation in 1935, which united the three tribes under a common constitution and government.
• The leadership of Chief Charlo, a respected tribal chief who resisted the removal of the Bitterroot Salish, but ultimately led his tribe on a 75-mile march to the reservation in 1891.
• The activism of D’Arcy McNickle, a prominent writer, educator, and advocate for Native American rights and sovereignty and a member of the Salish Kootenai Nation.
• The revival of the Arlee Powwow, one of the largest cultural celebrations of the tribe dating back to 1898.

Culture and tribes of the Flathead Indian Reservation

The culture of the Flathead Indian Reservation in western Montana is diverse and vibrant, as it reflects the heritage and identity of the three tribes that live on the reservation: the Bitterroot Salish, the Kootenai, and the Pend d’Oreille. Each tribe has its own language, traditions, beliefs, and values, but they also share some common elements and influences.

Bitterroot Salish

The Bitterroot Salish speak a dialect of the Salish language, which belongs to the Salishan language family. They are known for their oral history and storytelling, which preserve their ancestral knowledge and wisdom. They also practice various ceremonies and rituals, such as the sweat lodge, the spirit dance, and the bitterroot feast. They value respect, generosity, and harmony with nature.

Learn more: History of the Bitterroot Salish Tribe

Kootenai

The Kootenai speak a language that is unrelated to any other known language and is considered a language isolate. They also speak Ktunaxa Sign Language (a·qanⱡiⱡⱡitnam). They are known for their craftsmanship and artistry, especially in basketry, beadwork, and quillwork. They value courage, honesty, and loyalty.

Pend d’Oreille

The Pend d’Oreille speak a dialect of the Salish language, similar to the Bitterroot Salish. They are known for their fishing and hunting skills. They also have a strong spiritual connection to the land and the water, and honor their ancestors and elders. They value peace, friendship, and cooperation.

Learn more: History of the Pend d’Oreille Tribe

Geography of the Flathead Indian Reservation

The geography of the Flathead Indian Reservation in Montana is diverse and scenic, as it covers an area of 1.3 million acres (533,000 ha) in western Montana. The reservation has land in four counties: Lake, Sanders, Missoula, and Flathead, and contains the southern half of Flathead Lake, the largest natural freshwater lake west of the Mississippi River in the United States.

The reservation is surrounded by the Bitterroot Range, the Mission Mountains, and the Cabinet Mountains. These mountains provide a habitat for many wildlife species, such as grizzly bears, wolves, elk, deer, and mountain goats. The reservation also hosts the National Bison Range, a wildlife refuge that protects one of only three wild bison herds in Montana.

The reservation has abundant water resources, such as Flathead Lake, the Flathead River, and the Jocko River, which support a variety of fish species, such as trout, bass, and kokanee, making for excellent fishing opportunities.

Still, the reservation has faced some unique environmental issues and challenges around water rights and wildlife management. It wasn’t until 2022 that stewardship of the National Bison Range was returned to the tribes.

Water rights have also been a contentious issue at times, as the tribes have to negotiate with the state and the federal government over the allocation and use of water on the reservation. Wildlife management is a complex task, as the tribes have to balance the conservation and restoration of wildlife with the protection and development of human interests.

Economy of the Flathead Indian Reservation

The economy of the Flathead Indian Reservation in Montana is diverse and dynamic as it reflects the interests and aspirations of the tribes that live there.

The main sources of income and employment for the reservation are:

• Education
• Health services
• Transportation
• Warehousing

The reservation faces several economic opportunities and challenges related to poverty, unemployment, and education:

• Poverty. According to the U.S. Census Bureau¹, the poverty rate on the reservation is 20.2%, higher than the state average of 12.1%.²
• Unemployment. The unemployment rate on the reservation is 3.7%³, also slightly higher than the state average of 3.2%⁴.
• Education. Educational attainment for the reservation is lower than the state average, with 91.5% of the population having a high school diploma or higher, compared to 94.5% for the state.⁵

However, the reservation also has many economic development and innovation initiatives that aim to improve the living standards and well-being of the tribal members and the community.

Some of these initiatives include:

• The development of renewable energy projects, such as the Seli’š Ksanka Qlispe’ Dam (formerly the Kerr Dam), which dates back to 1938. This hydroelectric dam is owned and operated by the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes and provides electricity and revenue for the reservation.
• The promotion of entrepreneurship and small business development, such as S&K Technologies, which is a family of companies that provide engineering, aerospace, and information technology services to government and commercial clients.
• The advancement of technology and innovation, such as the establishment of Salish Kootenai College, a tribal college that offers undergraduate and graduate degrees in various fields including nursing, forestry, digital design, and education.

Politics of the Flathead Indian Reservation

As previously mentioned, the Flathead Indian Reservation in western Montana is home to the Bitterroot Salish, Kootenai, and Pend d’Oreilles tribes, collectively known as the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes of the Flathead Nation.

The reservation was established by the Treaty of Hellgate in 1855, but its governance has been contested and modified by various federal policies and laws over the years.

Today, the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes is a sovereign nation with its own constitution, flag, and seal. Its complex governance structure and legal status reflects its history and diversity.

Tribal council

The tribal council is the governing body of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes, composed of 10 members. The council elects a chairman, vice chairman, secretary, and treasurer from within.

Tribal courts

The tribal courts are the judicial branch of the tribal government, consisting of a trial court and an appellate court.

The tribal courts have jurisdiction over civil and criminal matters involving tribal members. The reservation is also subject to federal laws and regulations, as the tribes are federally recognized and have a government-to-government relationship with the United States.

Alliances and partnerships

The CSKT is a member of the Rocky Mountain Tribal Leaders Council, which is a coalition of 11 tribes in the Rocky Mountain region that works on common issues and advocates for tribal rights and interests.

They are also affiliated with the National Congress of American Indians, which is the oldest and largest organization of tribal governments in the United States, representing the interests of over 500 tribes and advocating for their inherent and legal rights.

Education on the Flathead Indian Reservation

The Flathead Indian Reservation has a diverse educational system and opportunities for its residents, both tribal and non-tribal. The reservation has 13 public schools, serving students from kindergarten to 12th grade.

The tribal college, Salish Kootenai College (SKC), offers bachelor and graduate degrees, as well as certificate programs, in various fields of study ranging from nursing to digital design. The college has 600 students, of which about 60% are Native American. The reservation also provides scholarships and financial aid for its tribal members.

About 27% of the reservation’s population have a high school degree or equivalent and about 19% have a bachelor’s degree⁶.

The reservation still faces barriers and gaps in their educational system, such as a lack of adequate funding and resources and high turnover rates. They also face a shortage of qualified teachers and staff and low attendance and retention rates due to various social and economic issues affecting the students and their families.

Health on the Flathead Indian Reservation

Like many of Montana’s Indian reservations, the Flathead Indian Reservation also faces unique health crises.

The reservation’s significant health disparities include higher rates of poverty and unemployment, illness, drug abuse, and mortality than the state average as well as lower access to quality health care and preventive services.

The rates of students on the Flathead Indian Reservation who have used inhalants at some point in their student careers and drank alcohol before turning 13 are higher than state averages⁸. Additionally, Native Americans across Montana die on average 18 years younger than non-native Montanans¹⁰.

Still, the reservation offers various health services and programs as it seeks to improve the health and well-being of its residents, both tribal and non-tribal, such as the Tribal Health Department.

The Tribal Health Department provides primary care, dental care, behavioral health, public health, and community health services to tribal members and their eligible beneficiaries.

Top 10 things to see and do – Visiting the Flathead Indian Reservation

The history, nature, and culture of the Flathead Indian Reservation in Montana are rich and varied, providing wonderful experiences for visitors.

Some of the points of cultural and historical interest on the Flathead Indian Reservation include:

1. National Bison Range. The National Bison Range was established in 1908 to help conserve and regenerate the American bison population. It is one of the oldest wildlife refuges in the nation and covers roughly 18,800 acres of grassland, wetland, and forest. Visitors can see bison, elk, deer, antelope, and other wildlife on a scenic drive or hiking trails.
2. Three Chiefs Culture Center. A museum and cultural center that showcases the history, culture, and art of the Salish, Pend d’Oreille, and Kootenai people. It offers exhibits, workshops, events, and a gift shop with authentic Native American crafts.
3. St. Ignatius Mission. A historic Catholic mission founded in 1854 by Jesuit missionaries. It is known for its impressive murals painted by Brother Joseph Carignano, an Italian cook and self-taught artist. The mission offers self-guided tours and features a museum in the original log church and another small home dating back to the mid-19th century, which has served as a convent, school, and hospital.
4. Ninepipe National Wildlife Refuge. A wetland complex named after Bitterroot Salish leader Joseph Ninepipes that provides habitat for hundreds of bird species, including bald eagles, ospreys, herons, and waterfowl. This refuge is a popular destination for bird watching.
5. Flathead Lake. The largest natural freshwater lake west of the Mississippi River. It covers 197 mi² (510 km²) and has a maximum depth of 370 feet (113.0 m). It is a recreational paradise for swimming, fishing, boating, and camping. The lake is also home to the Flathead Lake Monster, a legendary creature that has been sighted by many locals and visitors.
6. Garden of One Thousand Buddhas. The Garden of One Thousand Buddhas is a Buddhist center and public park located in the Jocko Valley, just north of Arlee. This unique architectural and natural delight features rows of Buddha statues arranged in a sacred formation. Visitors can walk through the garden on self-guided tours.  

Recreational opportunities on the Flathead Indian Reservation

The Flathead Indian Reservation in Montana offers a variety of outdoor recreation opportunities for visitors who want to enjoy the natural beauty and cultural diversity of the region.

Some of the outdoor activities you can enjoy here include:

1. Fishing. The reservation has many lakes, rivers, and streams that are home to trout, bass, perch, and other fish species. You can fish on the Flathead Lake, the Flathead River, the Ninepipe Reservoir, and other water bodies. You need a tribal fishing permit to fish on the reservation.
2. Boating. There are many lakes on the reservation for boating, picnicking, and swimming. However, scenic Flathead Lake, the largest natural freshwater lake west of the Mississippi River, is the most popular destination for water lovers. Rent a boat, kayak, canoe, or paddleboard from various marinas and outfitters on the reservation. Join a guided tour or a cruise to see the scenic views and wildlife of the lake or visit the mysterious Wildhorse Island.
3. Hiking. Hike on the National Bison Range, in the Mission Mountains Tribal Wilderness, and on other trails across the reservation. You can see bison, elk, deer, antelope, birds, and other animals along the way. You need a tribal recreation permit to hike on the reservation.
4. Camping. Camp on Flathead Lake, on the Flathead River, near the Ninepipe Reservoir, and at various campgrounds across the reservation. Campers enjoy clear, breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside and mountains by day and Montana’s starry sky by night. You need a tribal permit to camp on the reservation.

Visit the Flathead Indian Reservation

The Flathead Indian Reservation in western Montana has a rich and diverse heritage and stunning natural beauty. While the reservation faces many challenges and opportunities in the 21st century, it continues to move forward honoring its past, embracing its present, and shaping its future.

Come visit!

Other Indian reservations in Montana

• Blackfeet Indian Reservation – Past, present, top things to do
• Crow Indian Reservation – Past, present, tourism
• Northern Cheyenne Indian Reservation – Past, present, tourism
• The 11 Native American Tribes that lived in Montana before colonists arrived

Sources:

1. Statista
2. Census.gov
3. Flathead Beacon
4. Y Charts
5. Census Reporter
6. Census.gov
7. Montana.gov
8. Montana Legislature
9. National Indian Health Board
10. Montana Department of Public Health and Human Services

header: Jeremy Weber, CC BY 2.0 DEED